Skin Tone

The Hair Color Undertone Guide

The perfect hair color brightens your complexion, makes your eyes pop, and brings balance to your overall look. Whether you love natural shades or bold, vibrant colors, the key is knowing your skin tone and undertone.

Step 1: Identify Your Undertone

Identifying Skin Undertone

Your skin tone is the leading factor in deciding what hair color looks best on you. Skin can vary widely, but one thing stays consistent: your undertone, the subtle, permanent color hue beneath your skin’s surface. It’s distinct from your overall surface color and changes very little over time.

There are three ways to determine your undertone: The Paper Test, The Vein Test, and The Jewelry Test.

The Paper Test

The Paper Test For Skin Undertone

Grab a plain white sheet of paper. Perform this test in natural lighting (fluorescents distort your true skin color). Hold the paper up to your neck or chest in front of a mirror.

  • Skin looks yellow, gold, or olive → Warm undertones
  • Skin looks pink, red, or rosy → Cool undertones
  • Showing both or neither → Neutral undertone

The Vein Test

Vein Test For Undertone

No setup required. Look at your wrist veins in natural light.

  • Blue and purple → Cool undertones
  • Green and yellow → Warm undertones
  • Blue-green / teal mix → Neutral undertones

The Jewelry Test

Gold Vs Silver Jewelry Undertone Test

In natural light, hold one silver and one gold piece of jewelry to your neck or chest. Which makes your skin look more vibrant?

  • Silver, white gold, platinum looks best → Cool undertones
  • Gold, copper, brass, rose gold looks best → Warm undertones
  • Both look great → Neutral undertones

Step 2: Identify Your Skin Tone and Pick a Color

Here, look at both your skin tone and your undertone. We’ll cover fair, medium, olive, and deep skin, determined by how much melanin is in your skin.

Skin Tone Spectrum Chart

Fair Skin

Fair skin is light in color, often due to low melanin. People with fair skin may burn easily, have freckles, and have a complexion ranging from ivory to porcelain.

  • Natural shades:
    • Cool: platinum, ash blonde, cool chocolate, cherry red
    • Warm: golden blonde, honey, copper, strawberry blonde
    • Neutral: beige brown, mushroom blonde, soft caramel
  • Vibrant shades:
    • Cool: icy lavender, pastel blue, deep violet
    • Warm: peach, coral pink, warm rose gold
    • Neutral: dusty pink, seafoam green, soft teal
Hair Color For Fair Skin

Medium Skin

Medium skin is neither very pale nor very deep, typically described as naturally tanned or caramel-colored, with a moderate amount of melanin that allows easy tanning.

  • Natural shades:
    • Cool: espresso, ash brown, burgundy
    • Warm: honey brown, caramel, auburn
    • Neutral: bronde, copper blends, soft ombré
  • Vibrant shades:
    • Cool: jewel-toned sapphire, amethyst, or navy blue
    • Warm: marigold orange, rich magenta, warm pinks
    • Neutral: turquoise, teal, muted rainbow blends
Hair Color For Medium Skin

Olive Skin

Olive skin is characterized by a subtle greenish, yellowish, or earthy undertone. People with olive skin typically tan easily, rarely burn, and can range from fair to deep. The green or gray hue can sometimes be mistaken for a neutral undertone.

  • Natural shades:
    • Cool: mocha, cool black, deep burgundy
    • Warm: hazelnut, golden brown, chestnut
    • Neutral: mahogany, toffee balayage
  • Vibrant shades:
    • Cool: emerald green, cobalt blue, violet-black
    • Warm: copper orange, golden yellow, neon pink
    • Neutral: oil-slick colors (purple + teal + green shift)
Hair Color For Olive Skin

Deep Skin

Deep skin is dark and rich in melanin, ranging from copper to espresso, dark brown, or ebony. Individuals with deep skin tones rarely burn and often have a naturally radiant complexion.

  • Natural shades:
    • Cool: espresso, blue-black, violet red
    • Warm: cinnamon, bronze, golden brown highlights
    • Neutral: chestnut, rich coffee blends
  • Vibrant shades:
    • Cool: electric blue, royal purple, midnight teal
    • Warm: fiery red, orange, sunflower yellow
    • Neutral: bold rainbow blends, holographic pastels
Hair Color For Deep Skin

Pro Tips from Our Stylists

  • Natural harmony: For a subtle look, stay within 2–3 shades of your natural hair color
  • Bold contrast: For statement colors, pick shades opposite your undertone. Cool skin plus fiery red creates striking contrast.
  • Vibrant upkeep: Bright shades fade faster. Use color-safe shampoo and book regular glosses to keep them vibrant.
  • Think about your eyes: Vivid blues make brown eyes pop, purples highlight green eyes, and warm reds intensify hazel

Whether you go natural or neon, the best hair color is the one that makes you feel you. Let a stylist at The Junction Salon help you customize a shade that works with your skin tone, undertone, and lifestyle.

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Or call / text us at (919) 449-7144

The Junction Salon
The Junction Salon
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